We spent a week in Hakuba with another family, so total for 4 adults and 4 kids. The first couple of days there was no fresh snow, along with warm weather. In fact, that warm weather melted the previous snow fall from the week prior. So conditions were mediocre to very bad (one day). Fortunately, it then snowed heavily for 2 days straight, along with much colder weather.
In general, I would say Hakuba has alot to offer but is not the best destination for young children. A smaller village with ski in/out options is much easier. Logistically getting children in and out of vans, equipment rentals, restaurants, ski passes, etc is alot to deal with.
Transportation
For my fellow Taiwan travelers, there are flight options from Taipei Songshan Airport to Haneda, which is pretty awesome.
We decided to take a private car service from the airport to Hakuba. We found the train system to be difficult with luggage and children in tow, especially if bringing oversized luggage.
Our accommodation (more info below) arranged the car service for us via Chuo Taxi. They stopped several times during the trip to allow everyone to stretch their legs.
Once we got there we rented a car to get around, which is a must if you want to travel between the various resorts.
When to go
Japan receives a ton of tourists from Australia in January, followed by the Chinese from China/Singapore/Taiwan during Chinese New Year (end of Jan into Feb). There are also local holidays and festivals in Japan. So the only advice I have is to book super early.
Hakuba receives snow later in the season vs Hokkaido, so late Dec to early Jan is a safer bet.
Snow conditions by month:
Source: https://www.snowjapan.com/japan-daily-snow-weather-reports/Hakuba-Now/observed-snowfall-analysis
Hukuba Ski Areas
We decided to ski in three areas, starting with beginner friendly and finishing with the most well known:
Goryu and Tsugaike: we heard both are great for beginners and intermediates to learn. In reality, we felt Tsugaike was way too flat. In addition, you have to hike up a hill to get to the Gondola. In contrast, Goryu was appropriate for beginners and very easy to get in and out. Goryu also has a night ski option, which we took advantage of the last day.
Happo-one: this area is best for intermediates and advanced, perfect for my oldest son and I to experience together. There's a adequate green area for the rest of the family as well.
To give you a sense of distance, it's a 15 minute drive from Happo-one to Tsugaike.
We heard that Cortina is great for strong skiiers looking for that famout Japanese powder.
Accommodations
I started my search around October and practically all of the ski in/out hotels near Happo-one were booked. In fact, there was not much left in terms of selection when browsing through sites like booking.com
At first, I looked into the Marriott near Happo-one, however renting a car to get around is not convenient (you would need to reserve a rental car from one of the nearby agenices, hire a taxi to take you there to pick up the car, and then do the same on the return).
Without a car, you are either limited to relying on shuttle buses to get around, or staying in one part of the valley (might be OK I did not do extensive research).
I ended up securing a house through Hakuba White Fox Co., which also comes with a rental car service, where they can actually deliver the rental car to the house! Really amazing service that saves a ton of headache.
Most people tell me that outside of Happo-one area, there's very limited restaurants and shopping.
Restaurants
In the high season it can be very difficult to just walk in to most restaurants without a reservation. For parties greater than 4, you will be limited to the restaurants that can accomodate you. On the plus side, many restaurants offer online booking.
Guides/schools/rentals
Ski school operating out of Goryu: https://www.hakubasnowsports.com/
Ski school operating out of Tsugaike: https://www.evergreen-skischool.com/
Gear rentals near Happo-one: https://hakuba.centralsnowsports.com.au/contact-us/
Tips/Resources
Coming from Taiwan, you will need a Japanese translation of your Taiwan drivers license. A international drivers license is not sufficient, You will also need to bring your Taiwan drivers license and passport.
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